Wednesday night we ended up canceling Greek Club and instead 9 of us went out to dinner for Justine's last night in town. She had heard of this restaurant just north of the Theatre of Marcellus. It was really good - I should find out the name. I had a zucchini blossom, a mixed salad and grilled turbot. We all split some tiramisu for dessert.
Thursday we got up early (which has continued all week and probably will until we leave...) to go on the class trip on St. Thomas Aquinas. First we met everyone at Termini Station - Kristin R. you know it well! We took the train to catch a charter bus to Roccasecca, site of the castle where Thomas was born (see above) - nice country down there.
The locals come to fill up at the mountain spring. We found the road up to the castle closed for construction so we hung out by the bend in the road until a local man filling bottles told us his wife had keys. He drove of to get her while Reginaldus went through the life of Thomas.
He came back with his wife and she led us through the construction out to a small church which turned out to be the first church dedicated to St. Thomas Aquinas. It was lovely, so was the view. R. said that church had always been closed on his visits up there. So no castle, but a nice substitute. She then led us down into the medieval town into a more ornate church before we found the bus and left town.
Our next stop, after the bus dropped us off at the station for a brief train ride, was a tacky little town for lunch. We wandered all over and never found any place nicer to eat than this pizza shop. Their specialty? A fried roll stuffed with french fries and a hot dog. Ew! But Tim loved it - crazy Brit.
I stuck with the mini calzone.
After lunch we took an hour-long bus ride to Formia. I slept the whole way. The beach was as lovely as last time and we swam as long as we could. Despite some gross kids taking pictures while we got our clothes back on over our suits (and their stupid mothers who didn't believe us), the beach trip was relaxing and fun. But when walking quickly back to the station to make the train, I tripped and flew through the air. I somehow ducked my head, avoiding smashing it into the bench I ended up under. My leg wasn't so lucky.
Between our friend's superior Italian and Pat's awesome triage skills, we were able to get everything we needed from the swarm of helpful Italians that came to my aid. Water, ice, disinfectant, bandages - even a ride to the station.
The driver (a dude, or ragazzi, if I ever met one) wanted to take me to the hospital, but I knew it was only a surface scrape and nothing worth that. He got us to the station VERY fast, where the local cab drivers had already heard about the girl who fell. Ha! They swarmed around me and brought more disinfectant, wincing/cheering when Pat used it to clean the cut more.
We met our group and took the train to Fossa Nova, to the monastery where Thomas died.
We walked along the highway to Antonio's for a delicious dinner. Wine, local buffalo mozzarella, olives, pasta, fresh fruit. Love this place. It made me forget my leg (please ignore the salt-water hair and sunscreen face) and have a great night.
After dinner Antonio himself drove Reginaldus, Pat and I to the train station while the group walked. Train, home, bed.
Friday we somehow woke up time for our appointment at the Galleria Borghese. Lovely museum with some beautiful Bernini sculptures and Caravaggio paintings. We declined a walk through the park (my leg was still sore) and a 16 euro drink at Harry's Bar and instead viewed the Cappucine monk bones. Eh. We did duck into St. Andrew's (2nd largest dome in Rome) before having delicious salads at l'Insalata Ricca near the Largo Argentina.
I took a nap when Pat went to class and then we had a nice relaxing dinner at home. Gnocchi with pesto, frozen strawberry cake from the bakery and champagne.
This morning we went on the Scavi tour beneath St. Peter's. Despite their no camera policy and our fellow tourists' inability to realize it's a small space, the tour was fantastic. We walked under the Basilica, seeing tombs of pre-Christian Romans, then Christians and then finally St. Peter's tomb. Even if the validity of the bones is in question, it does seem like the tomb itself is Peter's. Sort of amazing that despite the hill being leveled and 4 churches being built over it in 2000 years, the tomb is still directly below the center of Michelangelo's dome in St. Peter's Basilica.
Speaking of dome, after the tour we decided to skip the Vatican museums again (I know, I know, but the long lines and 4 hours needed to view everything keep putting us off) and instead go to the top of the dome. Giving in a bit to my leg, we paid for the elevator for the first part. But then we had to climb the 320 stairs to the top.
Gah! If you are at all nervous of small spaces, avoid this! The walls slant in at one point when you are rounding the dome and I almost lost it - and I have no fear of heights or small spaces. Still, once at the top, there is a great view of the city.
We went down and looked for our friend the nun in the gift shop at the base of the dome. No luck. We did a bit of book shopping on the street before taking the bus back to our neighborhood. We stopped at a middle eastern place and had what they called kebob panini - actually gyro sandwich. Hooray for non-Italian food! But we did stop for gelato also - this time I tried 3 flavors, coffee, nut brittle and fig. Hooray for Italian food.
Since lunch, we came home, napped and Pat went to class. Tonight I'm meeting him and some classmates for dinner out. But we can't stay out too late - tomorrow morning we're braving the giant flea market at Porta Portese bright and early.
