Yes, we went to the free Genesis concert along with 500,000 of our closest Roman friends. But first...
After a late night with the Greek group Wednesday night, we got up fairly early and went up to the Vatican bookstore. We walked around the Borgo (neighborhood of Vatican City) and had a lovely lunch at Borgo Antico. It's Slow Food certified and the eggplant terrine is delicious. Any hungry Vatican-goers who want to avoid the overpriced trattorias should look for it on Borgo Pio.
Stayed in Thursday night and relaxed Friday. Friday night we had friends over for dinner again - grilled squid, fresh pasta and salad. Plus a new drink - coke and bitters. Then poker. Yikes, a late night.
Despite that we got up early Saturday morning and met Lukas and Tim in Campo di Fiori to see the Caravaggio's at all the churches Tim had researched. They were amazing!
We also saw some Raphael frescos - I love how the best stuff is sometimes in churches and free to the public here instead of locked in a museum (I'm looking at you, Vatican) where you'd have to pay to see it. Well, you have to pay the 10 cents to turn the lights on in the churches... Plus it was great to go along with someone else's plan for once.
After we met up with Amanda at one of the last churches, we went out to lunch of pasta and saw all the SALDI signs on the stores. That's right, it's the month-long summer shopping sale in Rome. All the shops observe and I think we're going out Tuesday to check them out. Weak dollar be damned!
We walked over to the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar of Augustan Peace) Museum on the Tiber after lunch. We had planned to check it out eventually, but the opening of the "45 years of Valentino" exhibit sealed it for me. It was so cool! I loved all the Valentino gown-decked mannequins surrounding the beautiful altar like Vestal Virgins.
The exhibit itself downstairs included all the famous gowns worn to the Oscars, more clothes and accessories though the years and, my favorite, his sketches from the 50's through next season.
This is me with the Oscar gowns (Cate Blanchett's to my right) smiling before I saw the 07-08 sketches. Hint - small bows are going to be everywhere. Hmm...maybe 45 years is long enough. The Ara itself was beautiful, surrounded with relief of Romans enjoying the years of peace Augustus brought to them. Very serene in the modern setting of the museum.
After the museum, Pat and I went to a grattachecca stand along the Tiber. Yum - shaved ice with fresh fruit syrups. Lemon-citron for me, orange for Pat.
We crossed the river and wound our way through Prati before busing home. Quick nap for Pat before class. I met him and some of his classmates after class for dinner at this LAME American-style steak place. The food sounded gross so we just ordered beers (draft, good!) and ended up getting a slice of pizza afterward instead. Good choice, since the nachos looked like they were drowned in canned cheese. But they were showing "Endless Summer" on the TVs, so that was kinda cool.
Speaking of kinda cool, we then walked through Trastevere, across the Tiber Island and went to the Circus Maximus for the Genesis concert. It was crowded, dusty, silly and awesome. Phil Collins is both a cheeseball and a great performer. We all rocked out (as much as that is possible) to the surpisingly good sound system and sang along to the hits.
This kid did not enjoy Genesis, but Pat and Dave (seen here as only a cheering arm) shared the crowd's excitement.
I couldn't believe how many people showed up - the news estimated 500,000 - based on the scooters parked nearby it seems like a low-ball figure.
Sunday we slept in a bit, skipping the weekly class trip (the Forum this week, which we've seen many times) and opting to meet friends to go out to Tivoli instead. We saw parts of Rome new to us, full of pushier suburbanites and more annoying public transportation. But we also saw this:
First we went to Hadrian's Villa and wandered the ruins before checking out the museum and the huge Egyptian-style pool.
We had fun but I had thought I'd read about fountains. Turns out I was thinking of another estate in Tivoli, so Pat and I parted ways with the group when they were heading back to Rome (a decision helped by their bus being packed with belligerent & drunken teens) and instead took the other bus into Tivoli proper.
After a bit of confusion about the location, we wandered down Medieval streets to the Villa d'Este. The admission was high and we only had an hour, but we soon forgot that once we went inside.
Huge views of the countryside, gorgeous fountains and lush (in an area where we'd witnessed 3 hill-side fires that day) gardens. Every turn made me gasp. We heard the Fountain of the Organs but sadly didn't see it in time - apparently the water pressure makes the different notes.
The gardens were filled with water and modern art, my new view of heaven. Long pools and a huge variety of fountains. Seriously, my favorite place of the trip so far.
After that we walked out into the town square again and saw the view from the Garibaldi Walk but wanted to get back to Rome before nightfall. The bus-subway-bus trip home wasn't so bad and we ended up observing our Sunday tradition of non-Italian food for dinner. This week - Indian at Jaipur in Trastevere.
We'd forgotten to eat all day so we ended up getting the Sunday dinner for 2 - samosas, tandoori chicken, lamb masala, eggplant puree, chana dal, chicken korma, beer, pistachio ice cream and milk pudding. A little of everything and man, was it tasty. Better dal than NYC, but honestly, it was just nice to taste some different spices. Plus our waiter was adorable, greeted us with champagne and gave us magazines when we left.
Despite dropping a shelf on my foot getting to bed and almost giving Pat a heart attack, our night was relaxing. And so is today. This week, tours with friends, shopping the sales, the beach and the Scavi under St. Peter's.
